Tag Archives: Cheo Reo

My dear brother

Not surprising to anyone who knew him, Juris became attached to children of all ages in Viet Nam. “Every other day I go down and tutor a Vietnamese kid in English. He’s a bright kid—seventeen—and unusually open for a Vietnamese, perhaps because he’s bounced around so much. Both his parents died some time ago so he has done quite a bit of that. Finally wound up here in Cheo Reo where his older brother (19) runs a small shop. I’ve gotten him some books (Viet to English) that they use in Saigon and a Viet-English dictionary. He’s an intelligent kid but his books and the stumbling efforts of his teachers are not too good so it’s awfully hard to tell how much he has learned. All I know is that he downright surprises me at times. I will soon have to leave him to his books and his own resources.”

A few lines from letters Juri received from his former student, who signed his letters “Your affectionate brother,” and “Your young brother” and “Your young brother Vietnamese”:

“My dear brother. You returned your country that is American one rich region. Do you have the please or the sorrow when you good-bye Phu Bon? I will be the sorrow, because the come day I do not see you, when I will go to New York? I don’t know.
“When you lived in Viet Nam what you saw the shadow of the war, you saw the wreckage because the bombs and the bullets.
“We are the people Vietnamese. We life on the small rigion of world. But we have the war, our house fall many persone die. Before day we have many rice, today we have few rice. That is a sorowfall shadow. It’s a war. The war is a hill. That day we will have the shadow of the war, the husband will to forget the wife, the baby will to die.
“VN’s war needing many soldiers. I may go to army in the vacance this year! My grand mother worry me too much.”
After Juri returned home, he tried to maintain contact, but after the fall of South Vietnam, he feared that any association with an American would put his student’s life in danger, and stopped.

Unwritten understandings

In many ways, Juris’s experience in Viet Nam was atypical, including the “unwritten understandings” between Americans and VC in the neighboring town: “The war seemed far away. We were miles from the border where major American units tried to interdict the arms and infiltrators dripping into the nation’s lower half. Unlike the major theaters of the Indochina conflict, in the little province capital, unwritten understandings with the enemy existed. The town and surroundings were, to the unarmed, a safe and neutral zone. A truce prevailed that allowed wary GIs to stroll without rifles into the village for a strong Vietnamese beer or a haircut at the town’s leading barbershop run by a Francophile sentimentalist whose key ring was anchored by a hard coin of the French era. Even while the war roiled all around, only rarely were shots fired out of anger in the city limits, and even then the odds were that a jealous South Vietnamese had popped off a round at a mongrel American ally, not that a member of the opposition, home on leave, had been interfered with in his peaceful pleasures in the bosom of his family. Indeed, we sometimes sat in the dizzying heat of the afternoon drinking an American bottle of pop from Bangkok watching a pajama-clad stranger enjoying a mentholated cigarette and iced beverage, each patron eyeing the other, and the telltale bulge of a sidearm under the other’s shirt, across the empty café.”

Lovey

In Vietnam Juris had a pet civet called Lovey that climbed like a monkey and traveled on his shoulder. Unfortunately, civets were considered food by the Montagnard guards and one day Lovey disappeared. Juri was philosophical about it: “We had a captain we didn’t like. They ate his parrot too, so I forgave them.”

Cut off from sensation

A poetic moment from Juris’s Viet Nam diary, written at the height of the rainy season in 1967: “A very civilized sound, the rain on the concrete walkways. But out past the buildings, on the other side of the perimeter and wires and snagging barbs, obscured by the thick downpour, the rain touches quietly to earth. Caught by the green flesh of the jungle it slides silently down the trunks and stalks and shoots onto the soft floor below.
“I don’t feel any more. I am cut off even from sensation. I am being absorbed.”

The gods of odds

As readers of “Red Flags” know, Juris served on an small, extremely isolated base adjacent to a tiny town. The roads in and out were too dangerous to use for supply runs, so everything arrived — when it arrived at all — by air. This report comes from late September, 1967: “Running out of everything– soap, soda, sleep, but not sun, of course. The end of the month drought. And naturally everyone has been paid — already — and packing all sorts of money with no place to spend it, so it slides back and forth across gaming tables, boxes, bare ground. By tomorrow morning half the compound will have the other half’s money, but of course, with nothing to splurge on, the gods of odds will readjust the imbalance by the next dawn.”

Lizards on the screen

As a child, Juris loved Westerns. “All movies, truth be told. On Saturdays the local cinema showed three feature films and a continuing serial for the price of one ticket. We came out blind as bats after three feature films and the latest installment of a Flash Gordon serial.” Juris the movie lover was frustrated in Viet Nam, where most of the time movies were “an unsynchronized, stuttering mess. Can’t wait to go watch a flic in its entirety upon my return to the world, one with no breaks and shakes and lizards on the screen.” His movie wish list for his return to ‘the world’ included Zeffirelli’s “Romeo and Juliet,” “Blow Up,” a second viewing of “The Sleeping Car Murders,” and anything new from Bergman. (He was also looking forward to seeing “Rosencrantz and Guildenstern” and “A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum” on stage.) In the meantime, he had to content himself with the odd assortment of films that made its way to his remote province: “They’re showing ‘Madame X’ again – that old Lana Turner tear jerker. It would be a fair bit of acting if only they would dispense with the dialogue. A great silent flic it would make. I caught most of it the other night in typical Phu Bon fashion: the first reel second, the second reel first. Didn’t affect the film in the least.”

Resorting to the RM

Juris was in the Signal Corps, his job to relay information about VC traffic on the part of the Ho Chi Minh trail that ran through Phu Bon province. By Viet Nam standards, Team 31 was a tiny operation, “but even our little ‘shot’ keeps us busy with regular radio-telephone-teletype communication. One van with the radio hookup and modulating equipment, another full of backup equipment, one secret secret little van shelter for the crypto teletype operation, and a cement floor, wooden “hootch” housing the switchboard, our living room, office, and bar. Small, but open for business round the clock as we are, keeps the seven of us hopping. Hate to think how many nights we’ve spent coddling this red-eyed monster. And if it’s not the radio, it’s the generator, and if … endless tale of woe.”
Managing the equipment, Juris quickly abandoned “by-the-book operation” for “bailing wire, Viet Nam methods”:
“The generators went off so I took a jeep to jump them. Turned out to be the major’s. I’m acquiring the reputation of an easygoing funny joker with a twinge of wild.
“Back to the wires and batteries and beeps. Beep crackle crackle to you too, you electronic slave driver. You have to talk rough to the damn thing or it won’t work right.
“Have enough static stored in my ears to last me a lifetime. I doubt if I’ll be able to tolerate anything more electrical than a light bulb for quite a while. We all started out patient and conscientious but now everybody resorts to the RM at the slightest indication of trouble. (That’s Rubber Mallet.) Very effective I might add. Really amazing what a few well placed whacks will do for this sophisticated half million dollars’ worth of gadgetry.”

Starch and polish

Toward what he assumed would be the end of his Viet Nam tour, Juris was plagued by the decision of whether or not to extend: stay longer in Viet Nam but serve a shorter total hitch in the army, or return to a stateside post but owe the army more of his life. Ultimately, the decision would be made for him by the Tet Offensive, which extended his tour involuntarily. But in the meantime, he wondered whether he could stand ‘real’ military life back home. As he wrote, “The Army really wouldn’t be so bad if it wasn’t so military and so much like an army.” For the anti-authoritarian Juri, stateside duty sounded like hell.
“Hopped back to Phu Bon and resumed polishing for the general. A cute guy as generals go. Friendly too, even shook hands with me, but then I guess he couldn’t do much else—our salutes are much too embarrassingly unmilitary. Hardly remember how. Thank god I got stuck in the boondocks. Not too much protocol around here. It’d be really rough to take all this junk otherwise. Bad enough being here without having to put up with the finer aspects of military life. I don’t know if I can get used to the States again. Rolling socks and boots and formations and starch and polish. Will not be easy. The big outposts and the Army are getting worse and worse. It’s getting to be like stateside, really. In Pleiku and Da Nang you’d think you were back in a major post in Washington, DC or something. You can hardly tell it’s a war zone: inspections, formal guard mounts. We don’t have any here. People just sling a rifle over their shoulder and walk around with soft caps on, a magazine in their weapon. Oh, the States. How are you going to take this stuff seriously after standing next to some light bird colonel in the morning and watching him shave his feeble face in his drawers?”

Anonymous moments

Although perennially skeptical about war, Juris was deeply moved by acts of personal heroism he witnessed in Viet Nam: “If they had a medical emergency, Special Forces ignored everything. Any instinct you have for self-preservation, forget it: they would just put their casualty in a jeep, middle of the night, totally black, no stars, and drive him to our airstrip in Cheo Reo. And there’d be GIs standing there in the dark like the Statue of Liberty with their lit flares in hand, visible for miles – this is a place with no electric lights forever – in total darkness, totally vulnerable, guiding a helicopter in to get somebody out. You wouldn’t even know who it was. You couldn’t see their face – it would be averted from whatever was coming off the flare. They were amazing, these anonymous moments.”